What it is and what the symptoms mean
A private water system has three main parts: the pump (submersible, down in the well, or a jet pump above ground on shallow wells), the pressure tank that stores water and evens out cycling, and the controls (pressure switch, control box, and wiring). Many "pump failures" are actually a failed pressure switch, a waterlogged tank, or a bad capacitor, which are much cheaper fixes. A good contractor tests before pulling a pump.
How long pumps last
HomeGuide notes well pumps typically need replacing every 10 to 15 years. Short-cycling (the pump turning on and off rapidly) is the most common thing that shortens a pump's life, and it is usually caused by a waterlogged or under-pressurized pressure tank, so a cheap tank fix can protect an expensive pump.
Symptoms and what they often mean
- No water at all: tripped breaker, failed pressure switch, failed control box or capacitor, or a failed pump.
- Pressure swings or rapid clicking: often the pressure tank (lost air charge) or switch.
- Pump runs constantly: a leak in the system, a broken drop pipe, a failing pump, or a low water level in the well.
- Air spurting from taps: a dropping water level, a leak in the suction side, or a pump problem.
- Sand or sediment: pump set too low, a worn pump, or a well screen issue.
- Higher electric bills: a pump running longer than it should.
Options and materials
Repair
Replacing a pressure switch, control box parts, or a pressure tank.
Pump replacement
Pulling the old pump and installing a new one sized to the well's depth and yield and to your household's demand.
Upgrades
Constant-pressure (variable-speed) systems, larger tanks, or adding treatment based on water test results.
Constant-pressure systems
A variable-speed pump adjusts output to demand, giving steady pressure even when two showers run at once, and allowing a smaller tank. They cost more upfront and add electronics that can fail. They make the most sense for larger households or when steady pressure matters.
Pressure tanks
A tank stores water under pressure so the pump does not start every time a tap opens. Bladder tanks lose their air charge or rupture over time. A contractor can check the pre-charge (it should be set relative to the pressure switch's cut-in setting) in a few minutes.
Water treatment
If your water test shows nitrate, bacteria, iron, or hardness issues, treatment equipment (softeners, filters, UV, reverse osmosis) is often handled by the same contractor or a water treatment specialist. Test first, then treat what the results show.
The process, and what to ask
- Testing: typically power, pressure, tank pre-charge, and amperage draw.
- Estimate: ask for one in writing before the pump is pulled.
- Repair or replace parts.
- Disinfect if the well was opened, and test the water afterward.
Questions to ask the contractor
- Have you tested the switch, control box, and tank before recommending a new pump?
- What size pump do you recommend, and why, for my well depth and household?
- Will you replace the wire, drop pipe, or check valve, and what condition were they in?
- What warranty comes with the pump and the labor?
- Will you disinfect the well after the work, and should I test the water afterward?
Safety
Well pumps run on 115 or 230 volts, and capacitors in control boxes can hold a charge after power is off. Checking the breaker is fine; opening the control box or pressure switch is a job for the contractor.
Testing after work
Opening a well can introduce bacteria. Ask whether the contractor shock-chlorinates after the job, and arrange a coliform bacteria test afterward. The Kankakee County Health Department's well program offers water sampling.
What it costs: typical national ranges
| Item | Typical installed cost |
|---|---|
| Submersible pump, installed | $1,000–$2,500 |
| Shallow-well jet pump, installed | $400–$1,000 |
| Deep-well jet pump, installed | $500–$1,400 |
| Constant-pressure system | $2,000–$5,000 |
| Pump motor replacement | $500–$1,000 |
| Well inspection | $250–$550 |
What moves the price
- Well depth: deeper wells need more pipe, wire, and a stronger pump, and take longer to pull.
- Pump size: sized to the well's yield and your household's demand.
- What else is worn: drop pipe, wire, the check valve, the pressure tank, or the switch may be replaced at the same time.
- After-hours service: no-water emergencies at night or on weekends usually cost more.
For ranges by pump type and well depth, see our well pump replacement cost guide.
Ask whether the quote includes pulling and resetting the pump, new wire and pipe if needed, the pressure switch and tank check, disinfection, and haul-away of the old pump.
Wells and water in Kankakee County
In 2010, USGS estimated that 26,679 of Kankakee County's 113,449 residents (about 23.5%) supplied their own household water, all of it from groundwater, and the Illinois State Geological Survey records 1,370 private wells drilled in the county since 2000. A state geological study found aquifers in the Kankakee area within about 5 to 20 feet of the surface with high-to-moderate contamination potential, so annual testing (Illinois EPA recommends nitrate testing every year) is worth pairing with any well work. Summer irrigation, lightning, and winter freezes are common triggers for pump and control failures.
Sources
Checked October 2026. We link the public source for every figure on this page.
- HomeGuide, Well pump cost (2026) — national cost ranges, pump lifespan, replacement time
- Illinois EPA, Well Water Testing — yearly bacteria and nitrate testing
- Kankakee County Health Department, Well Program — water sample kits, sample days, permits
- USGS, Estimated Use of Water in the United States, county data 2010 (Kankakee County, FIPS 17091: self-supplied domestic population 26,679 of 113,449) — share of residents on self-supplied (well) water
- Illinois State Geological Survey, ILWATER well records — private wells drilled in the county since 2000